Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their children do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
